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Steps to Jumping a Car with a Dead Battery

1. Position the Booster Vehicle

First, park a vehicle with a full battery close to the car with the discharged battery. The vehicles can be beside each other or facing bumper-to-bumper. They must be close enough to allow the jumper cables to reach the batteries.

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Shut off the ignition on both cars and remove the keys. Set the emergency brake in both vehicles. Turn off all accessories, including climate control, lights, and radio.

Note: Most gasoline-powered vehicles have batteries under the hood. However, the battery is found in the trunk or under the back seat in some models. Arrange the car with the good battery accordingly. Check the vehicle’s manual if its battery location isn’t known.

2. Locate Battery Terminals

Raise the hood of the cars to access the batteries. A car battery has two terminals – positive (+) and negative (-). Sometimes the battery terminals are hidden, and remote metal posts are placed for convenient access to jump the battery or provide a boost. The positive terminal often is identified with a red cap. Refer to the vehicle manual for terminal locations if necessary.

The terminals should be free from corrosion. If the posts seem coated with a white or greenish substance, remove it using a wire brush, aluminum foil, or anything except your bare hand. The corrosion can irritate your skin.

Do not attempt to jump the battery if it is cracked or leaking.

3. Connect Jumper Cables

Jumper cables have a pair of spring-loaded clamps at each end — one red and one black. Red clamps attach to positive battery terminals; black clamps are for negative posts or grounding. It’s essential to connect the four clamps securely and in the correct sequence. Improper connection can result in personal injury or damage to the cars’ electrical system. Let our Aurora co tow trucks send the best Mobile mechanic available near you.

Keep the metal clamps from touching each other while clipping onto the batteries.

• First, attach a RED clamp to the positive terminal of the DEAD battery.
• Next, attach the RED clamp from the other end of the cables to the BOOSTER battery’s positive terminal.
• Then, attach the BLACK clamp to the negative terminal of the BOOSTER battery.
• Last, attach the BLACK clamp an unpainted metal part on the engine, such as a bolt or bracket, of the car with the DEAD battery. Some models have a grounding bolt placed solely for this purpose.

4. Jump-Start the Car

Double-check that the connected booster cables aren’t near moving engine parts. Start the engine of the vehicle that’s donating the electricity.

Then start the car with the weak battery. If the engine doesn’t turn over right away, you might need to wait a few minutes to allow the battery to build a sufficient charge. Increasing the idle speed of the booster vehicle may help make this happen more quickly.

Note: A dead car battery never gets discovered at a convenient time, and foul weather can add to the inconvenience. If you’re wondering if you can jump a car in the rain, don’t worry — it’s safe. Even with the additional moisture, the vehicle battery’s voltage isn’t high enough to make the task more dangerous than jump-starting on a dry day.

5. Disconnect Jumper Cables

With the jump-started car’s engine running at a smooth idle, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order they were attached. Always keep the metal clamps from touching each other when connecting and disconnecting them from battery terminals.

• Disconnect the negative clamp from the jumped car.
• Next, disconnect the negative clamp from the booster car.
• Then, disconnect the positive clamp from the booster car.
• Last, disconnect and remove the positive clamp from the jumped car.

6. Drive the Jumped Car

Return the emergency cables to your emergency kit and close the car’s hood. Then drive the jump-started car for at least 20-35 minutes to allow the alternator to charge the jumped battery.

Be sure to park the vehicle in an open area of a safe location when you turn the engine off, in case the car needs jump-starting again. If it does need another jump, the battery’s condition could be deteriorating, especially if it’s more than a few years old.

Many auto parts stores that sell batteries can run a diagnostic check on the car battery to identify whether a replacement is needed.

Most of the time is just the battery that got low on power due to weather conditions others could be your alternator that is already bad and is no property charging your car, but how did you know is your alternator is already bad?

7 SIGNS OF A FAILING ALTERNATOR

1. DIM OR OVERLY BRIGHT LIGHTS

When an alternator begins to fail, it provides inconsistent voltage to your electronic accessories. Generally, that takes the form of under- or over-performing equipment, such as headlights that are either too dim or extremely bright. You may also experience flickering lights or lights that erratically go from bright to dim and vice-versa.

2. DEAD BATTERY

Sometimes a dead battery is just a dead battery — it’s reached the end of its life after a few years of use — or maybe you accidentally left the headlights on all night. Other times, however, a dead battery could be a sign that your alternator is malfunctioning.

A bad alternator won’t sufficiently charge the battery while the engine is running, causing the charge to deplete faster than usual. One way to test whether the issue is battery- or alternator-related is to jumpstart the car. If you jumpstart your car and it stays running, your battery may need replacing soon. However, if you jumpstart the car and it dies again shortly after, it might mean your alternator isn’t getting enough power to the battery, anyway our Aurora Co tow trucks are always open to help.

3. SLOW OR MALFUNCTIONING ACCESSORIES

An alternator that isn’t supplying enough power to your car’s electronics often results in slow or non-working accessories. If you notice your windows taking longer than usual to roll up or down, or if your seat warmers feel “off”, or even if your speedometer and other instruments start going haywire, you may have an alternator problem.

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Many modern vehicles also have a priority list of equipment programmed into the car that tells the onboard computer where to cut power first if the alternator isn’t supplying enough electricity. That way, if you’re driving with a failing alternator, you’ll lose power to your radio (or other nonessential accessories) before losing power to your headlights.

4. TROUBLE STARTING OR FREQUENT STALLING

As previously mentioned, trouble starting your engine might mean that your alternator is failing to charge the battery. This means that when you turn the key in the ignition, all you’ll hear is a clicking sound instead of the purr of your engine.

On the other hand, if your car is frequently stalling out while driving, it may be a sign that the spark plugs aren’t getting enough power from the alternator to keep the engine running.

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5. GROWLING OR WHINING NOISES

Cars make a ton of odd sounds — some are harmless while others can indicate serious mechanical problems. If you ever hear growling or whining noises coming from under the hood, you could have alternator problems, which should be checked out by a professional ASAP. call the best Aurora Co Tow trucks company now and we can help you identify the car problem very easy.

This growling or whining sound happens when the belt that turns the alternator’s pulley becomes misaligned or rubs against the side of the pulley. You may also hear this sound if the bearings that spin the rotor shaft are going bad.

6. SMELL OF BURNING RUBBER OR WIRES

A foul odor of burning rubber or wires could indicate that parts of your alternator are starting to wear out. Because the alternator’s drive belt is under constant tension and friction — and because it’s close to the hot engine — it may wear out over time and emit an unpleasant burning rubber smell.

Similarly, if your alternator is being overworked or if it has frayed or damaged wires, you may smell a burning odor comparable to an electrical fire. If you can get the problem let our Aurora co Tow trucks driver head over and help you most of the time An overworked alternator tries to push too much electricity through its wires, causing them to heat up unsafely. Damaged wires also create resistance to the flow of electricity, causing the wires to heat up and emit a foul odor.

7. BATTERY WARNING LIGHT ON DASH

When the battery warning light pops up on the dashboard, it’s commonly mistaken to be a battery-specific issue. However, the battery warning light indicates that there could be a problem within the wider electrical system of your car, including the alternator. Let’s us help you call now the best Aurora co tow trucks near you and we can dispatch the nearest mobile mechanic.

Alternators are designed to work at a specific voltage, typically between 13-14.5 volts. If your alternator is failing, its voltage may drop below capacity, causing the battery warning light to appear on your dash. Similarly, the battery light will also appear if the alternator is exceeding its voltage limit, depending on how much stress it is under.

Depending on the electrical load from your car’s accessories (headlights, wipers, radio, etc.), you may see the battery warning light flicker on and off as the alternator fluctuates in and out of its intended voltage capacity. While this may seem like a minor annoyance, it’s better to bring your car in for an alternator inspection rather than wind up stuck on the side of the road.

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